Storms don’t care how busy your week is. When the wind rips shingles, hail bruises the mat, or a tree limb carves a hole you can see daylight through, you need a plan that protects the inside of your home as fast as possible. I’ve spent two decades on roofs after hurricanes, afternoon squalls, and once a freak hailstorm that left golf-ball craters in clay tile. The pattern is the same: the homeowners who slow down just enough to make the right moves save money, protect their insurance claims, and avoid injuries.
This guide walks you through the first 48 hours after roof damage, from what to do while the storm still rages to how to manage a proper repair or roof replacement if that’s where the inspection leads. I’ll give you practical steps, the judgment calls that separate a true emergency from something that can wait, and the mistakes that turn a small issue into a big bill.
Safety comes first, always
The most dangerous moments I see are when people climb on wet roofs in bad shoes, at night, with adrenaline running high. A roof is slick even in a light drizzle. Add debris, loose granules, and a pitch you don’t feel from the ground, and you’re looking at a hospital visit.
If water is entering the house, your first job is to make the interior safe. Move people and valuables away from the leak paths. Put buckets under drips and lay towels around them. Turn off electricity to rooms where water is near light fixtures or outlets. If a ceiling is bulging, don’t stand under it. I’ve poked dozens of ceiling blisters with a screwdriver to relieve water pressure before the whole panel fails. Work with a partner. Keep your center of gravity low. Take photos of the damage once you’ve stabilized the immediate risk.
When conditions outside are still hazardous, leave the roof alone. No temporary patch is worth a fall.
What counts as an emergency vs. an urgent repair
Not every missing shingle qualifies as an emergency roof repair. The roof is a system with layers designed to shed water. You need to triage based on what exposes the structure to active water intrusion.
An emergency means you have a hole or breach that is allowing water to enter the living space or saturate insulation and framing. Think punctures from limbs, sections of shingles torn back to the felt or deck, ridge caps peeled off, or flashing ripped away at a wall or chimney. A soft deck that flexes underfoot also demands immediate attention because it signals rot or a blow-through.
Urgent but not emergency covers damaged or missing shingles where underlayment remains intact and no water is actively entering the house, a dented metal panel without seams compromised, or granule loss after hail that hasn’t yet translated into leaking. You still want a roofer to inspect quickly, but you can wait until the roof is dry and safe to access.
This distinction matters for insurance timelines and for your own safety. Emergencies justify tarping and board-ups even in marginal weather; urgent items can wait for daylight and dry footing.
The right way to document storm damage for insurance
I’ve worked with homeowners who received full roof replacement approvals and others who struggled to get basic repairs covered. The difference was rarely the severity of damage. It was documentation.
Start a simple sequence: exterior, roofline, interior. Photograph the entire house from each side, then move closer to the damaged areas. Get wide shots that show context and close-ups that show details like torn shingles, exposed nail heads, cracked flashing, or hail strikes the size of quarters. If you safely can, shoot short videos that capture dripping water and the sound of leaks. Inside, document ceiling stains, bubbling paint, wet insulation, and any damaged contents. Save everything with timestamps. Keep receipts for tarps, buckets, and any paid emergency roofing services.
Call your insurer once the immediate risk is under control. Ask about their requirements for mitigation. Most policies require you to protect the home from further damage. A licensed roofing contractor can supply a written emergency repair report that helps your claim. If you’re searching “roofer near me” or “roofing company Miami” in the wake of a hurricane, be ready for high demand. The first contractor who promises everything without photos or a written scope of work is rarely the one who will help your claim succeed.
Tarping a roof without making things worse
I’ve seen good tarps installed badly turn into sails that rip shingles clean off. Tarping is a temporary measure that should stabilize the area until a proper repair or roof replacement can happen. The basics are simple, but execution matters.
Use a heavy-duty tarp long enough to extend at least three feet beyond the damaged area in every direction. If the breach is near a ridge, run the tarp over the ridge so water sheds off both sides rather than back underneath. Avoid nails through the field of the tarp over the compromised zone; you’ll only add more holes. Instead, create anchor boards by rolling the tarp edge around a 2x4 and screwing the board into sound decking beyond the damaged area, aligning with rafters when possible. Seal edges with compatible roofing cement to prevent wind lift, especially along the upslope edge. Never wedge nails into shingles. That voids warranties and invites leaks under the shingle tabs.
If you’re not comfortable on the roof or the pitch is steep, call a roofing company that offers 24/7 emergency services. In storm seasons I keep crews ready for tarp calls with the gear already loaded: fall protection, pads to protect shingles, battery lights, and a kit of fasteners matched to different roof types.
When a quick interior fix buys you time
Sometimes the fastest way to reduce damage is from the inside. If one recessed light fixture turns into a rain spout, turn off the breaker and remove the trim to let water drain rather than pooling in the ceiling cavity. For plaster ceilings that swell and crack, a small controlled hole near the lowest point of the bulge allows water to escape to a bucket rather than migrating across the ceiling plane. Pull wet insulation away from the leak area to let the cavity breathe once the rain stops. Document everything before you touch it.
Dehumidifiers and fans should run as soon as the weather clears. Mold can begin to colonize in 24 to 48 hours in warm climates. If you’re in a humid market like South Florida, drying the interior quickly is as important as anything you do on the roof.
Reading the roof after different types of storms
Not all storms injure roofs the same way. Knowing what to look for speeds up your assessment and keeps contractors honest.
High wind typically lifts shingles from the lower edge, creasing and breaking the adhesive bond. I look for shingles bent back that don’t re-seal, missing tabs, displaced ridge caps, and disturbed flashing where wind drove rain sideways under laps. On metal roofs, check standing seams for lock separation and fasteners that backed out. Tile roofs often show displaced or cracked hip and ridge tiles.
Hail damage has a specific fingerprint. On asphalt shingles you’ll see circular bruises or missing granules with a soft spot when pressed. The bruise matures over days as the asphalt oxidizes and the spot turns black. On metal, hail leaves dings but usually doesn’t penetrate; the issue becomes coating damage and potential rust, along with aesthetic concerns. On tile, hail can fracture corners or shatter pieces outright. Take chalk and lightly rub it across suspected areas to outline hail strikes during an inspection.
Heavy rain exposes weaknesses in flashing and penetrations. Skylights, chimneys, satellite mounts, and vent stacks are common entry points. I trace leaks uphill because water rarely drops straight down; it follows the path of least resistance along framing and sheathing. A stain ten feet from a vent pipe doesn’t absolve the pipe flashing.
Fallen limbs cause blunt-force trauma. The damage may be obvious, but look beyond the hole for spidered cracks in decking and broken trusses. If structure is compromised, rope off the area inside and call a licensed contractor to assess before anyone re-enters those rooms.
Choosing the right professional in the surge after a storm
After a big blow, your search history might look like “roofing near me,” “roofer near me,” or “roofing contractor open now.” You’ll see out-of-town license plates and pop-up signs at intersections. Some are legitimate surge teams. Others are opportunists.
Here’s how we screen in my company when we help neighbors vet options:
- Verify license, insurance, and local permitting familiarity. Ask for a certificate of insurance with your name listed. Ask who performs the work. A reputable roofing company either uses in-house crews or established subcontractors with supervision on site. Request a written scope with materials, temporary measures, and a target timeline. Emergency roof repair should be defined, not vague. Expect photos before and after, and clear pricing for temporary tarping versus permanent roof repair. Beware high-pressure sales tactics, assignment-of-benefits forms you don’t understand, and promises of “free roofs.” Insurance pays for verified damage, not marketing claims.
If you’re in a competitive market like a roofing company Miami search after a hurricane, get at least two opinions once the roof is stabilized. In my experience, the second quote often catches items the first missed, especially code upgrades or manufacturer-specific components your policy may cover.
Repair or replace: the judgment calls that matter
One of the hardest conversations happens when the homeowner hopes for a quick roof repair and the inspection shows widespread damage that makes a patch false economy. I approach this decision with three lenses: the extent of damage, the age and condition of the existing roof, and code compliance.
On asphalt shingles, if wind has broken the seal more than sporadically or lifted shingles across multiple planes, replacement is often smarter. Selective repairs can leave a checkerboard of new and old shingles that never seal uniformly. If the roof is near the end of its service life, repairs can chase leaks every storm. For hail, insurers and manufacturers consider the number and density of bruises per square. A roof with 8 to 10 hits per square across slopes usually qualifies for replacement because future leaks are likely as granules shed.
Metal roofs are durable, but point impacts at seams and penetrations can require panel replacement rather than spot fixes. If the substrate is sound and the damage is isolated, a repair is reasonable. Tile roofs can often be repaired if you have matching tiles. After certain storms, the supply chain becomes the deciding factor. I once waited six weeks for a discontinued tile profile while a temporary membrane covered the area. The homeowner chose partial replacement with a compatible, code-approved alternative and a decorative transition rather than leaving a tarp through peak hurricane season.
Building codes can push the choice. In many jurisdictions, if more than a certain percentage of the roof is repaired within a year, you must bring the entire roof or section up to current code. That can include secondary water barriers, enhanced nailing, or specific underlayment types. A good roofing contractor will outline these requirements up front.
Materials and methods for temporary fixes that don’t haunt you later
Emergency measures should never create new problems. I avoid roofing cement slathered onto asphalt shingles except along tarp edges and flashing repairs where compatible primer and cement are specified. Overuse of cement traps moisture and ruins future adhesion.
For penetrating leaks at vent stacks, a quick fix can be as simple as an appropriately sized storm collar and roof replacement a bead of high-grade sealant, but that is a stopgap. Cracked pipe boots need replacement. For chimney flashing, aluminum step flashing pieces must integrate with counterflashing and the shingle courses. Spraying sealant into the gap between brick and flashing is a bandage that usually fails on the next heavy rain.
On flat or low-slope roofs, water seeks seams. Peel-and-stick patches can work on modified bitumen if surfaces are clean and dry. EPDM and TPO require compatible primers and patches; mixing products leads to adhesion failures. Keep foot traffic minimal on wet membranes to avoid scuffs and punctures. If you don’t know the membrane type, wait for a pro.
Matching roofing services to the damage
A good roofing company will tailor their approach. The menu isn’t just “repair or replace.” It’s leak diagnostics, emergency dry-in, moisture mapping, structural assessment, and then, if needed, roof installation or replacement.
Leak diagnostics should include tracing, not guessing. We use moisture meters, infrared cameras when conditions allow, and old-fashioned water testing. For a valley leak, for instance, I’ll run a hose in stages starting at the eave and move upslope, watching for the exact moment water shows inside. That prevents tearing open entire sections of roof chasing a problem that’s really three shingles and a nail pop.
Moisture mapping in attic spaces tells you whether insulation must be removed and replaced. Wet insulation loses R-value and becomes a mold risk. Structural assessment matters after impacts. A cracked truss can seem minor until you see a sag two months later.
When a roof replacement becomes the right path, talk through system details, not just shingle color. In wind-prone areas, I recommend six nails per shingle, reinforced starter strips, and high-wind ridge products. In Miami-Dade or similar high-velocity hurricane zones, product approvals and installation methods are prescriptive for a reason. Skipping a specific underlayment or the secondary water barrier to save money is false savings you’ll feel during the next storm.
Working with your insurer without losing control
Claims go smoother when roles are clear. Your insurer adjusts the claim. Your roofing contractor scopes the work and documents damage. You, as the homeowner, control who works on your home and sign off on the scope.
Provide your contractor with your policy’s relevant sections if you have them, especially on code upgrades or ordinance and law coverage. Ask your roofer for a line-item estimate that mirrors common insurance formats. That prevents confusion over what is included and helps you see differences between “roof repair” and “roof replacement” proposals. If your insurer requests multiple bids, make sure each contractor scopes the same materials and details to avoid apples-to-oranges comparisons.
Avoid signing broad assignments of benefits unless you fully understand the implications. They can shift control over the claim entirely to the contractor. In some states, those documents are tightly regulated, but you still need to read every line.
How long temporary measures can last
Tarps are not roof systems. They degrade under UV light, flail in wind, and collect debris. In fair conditions, a professionally installed tarp can last a few weeks, sometimes a couple of months, but it should be treated as a bridge to permanent work. Peel-and-stick patches on low-slope roofs can buy similar time if they bond correctly, but plan for follow-up.
Insurance carriers expect you to move toward a permanent solution within a reasonable time. Your file will look better if you can point to scheduled repairs or a roof installation date, even if supply chain delays push the calendar.
Costs you can expect, with realistic ranges
Emergency roof repair pricing varies by region, roof type, and access. As a ballpark from recent seasons:
- Emergency tarping typically ranges from a few hundred dollars for a small area to over a thousand for steep roofs, complex geometries, or after-hours calls. Larger commercial tarps are more. Targeted repairs on asphalt shingles after wind events often land in the mid-hundreds to low thousands, depending on how deep the repair goes and whether decking needs replacement. Tile repairs cost more because of labor and materials. Expect higher numbers if matching is an issue or if mortar-set systems require larger sections to be reset. Full roof replacement runs broad. Asphalt shingle roofs for an average single-family home may range from the high single thousands to well into five figures depending on materials, code requirements, and tear-off complexity. Metal and tile climb from there.
Ask for a clear breakdown: labor, materials, permit fees, disposal, and contingencies like decking replacement per sheet. A transparent roofer will be comfortable laying this out.
Preventive moves that reduce future emergency calls
You can’t stop a hurricane, but you can harden your roof and shorten the to-do list after the storm.
Trim branches that overhang the roof and keep them at a distance that accounts for wind sway. Clear gutters before storm season so water doesn’t back up at eaves. Have a roofer perform a pre-season inspection to address loose flashing, failed sealant at penetrations, and brittle shingles that won’t survive high winds. If your area allows it, upgrade to higher wind-rated shingles or installation methods. Install secondary water barriers under the primary underlayment in hurricane zones. Replace aging pipe boots before they crack. I’d rather replace five boots on a dry afternoon than meet you at midnight with towels and a headlamp.
Keep a simple kit at home: a heavy-duty tarp, a couple of 2x4s, screws, a pry bar, utility knives, gloves, and a cordless drill. Don’t climb a roof if you’re not comfortable, but having the right materials makes a roofer’s emergency visit faster and cheaper.
A short, practical checklist for the first 24 hours
- Make the interior safe: move people and valuables, shut off electricity in wet areas, relieve ceiling blisters carefully. Document everything with photos and short videos: exterior, roofline, interior. Stabilize the roof if safe: professional tarping or temporary dry-in to stop active leaks. Call your insurer and a reputable roofing contractor for assessment and written scope. Start drying the interior: fans and dehumidifiers to prevent mold, and remove wet insulation as advised.
What to expect on repair day
A professional crew will arrive with fall protection, tarps to protect landscaping, and materials staged for efficiency. They should walk you through the plan, show you the damage if you haven’t seen it, and confirm any surprises they encounter before proceeding. On shingle repairs, I expect the team to remove the damaged courses cleanly, replace any compromised underlayment or decking, weave new shingles into the existing pattern, and reseal flashing with manufacturer-approved products. On larger jobs, a field supervisor or project manager should be your point of contact.
At the end of the day, ask for photos of the repaired areas and confirmation that all debris and fasteners were cleaned up. Stray nails in the driveway are a classic nuisance after a storm; magnetic sweeps should be standard.
Final thoughts from the ladder
After a storm, the best decisions are rarely the fastest-sounding ones. Move with purpose, but don’t skip steps. Make the interior safe. Document thoroughly. Stabilize the roof without creating future headaches. Work with a licensed roofing contractor who shows their work and puts the scope in writing. If you’re searching for “roofing services” or “roofer near me,” look for signals of professionalism rather than just availability. If you’re in a high-demand market like Miami, consider established names when you type “roofing company Miami,” but still vet them with the same rigor.
A roof protects everything underneath it. Treat emergencies like the serious events they are, but keep your eye on a permanent, well-installed solution. Done right, a rough storm becomes a story you tell, not a problem that keeps returning every time the radar turns yellow.